03 Jan WANDERINGS: IDAHO’S SILVER VALLEY
In the 1960s, tiny Wallace, Idaho, was threatened when the federal government proposed cutting through the historic downtown to lay the last link of Highway I-90. The town’s appearance and charm would have been marred forever without the courage and persistence of two residents: businessman Harry F. Magnuson and preservationist Nancy Lee Hanson. In a plan to stave off demolition, Magnuson sued the federal government for failing to file an environmental impact study. Meanwhile, Hanson rallied the citizenry to get homes and businesses listed under the National Register of Historic Places. Eventually, the government relented and relocated the section of highway away from the downtown. Due to citizen efforts, the entire town of Wallace was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1979, allowing the community to retain its historic architecture and palpable Old West appeal.
Wallace is one of a handful of Northern Idaho municipalities, including Kellogg and Coeur d’Alene, that demonstrate gumption when it comes to historic preservation. Nested amidst breathtaking scenery, the region’s architecture, monuments, natural wonders, Western art, and museums make it worth savoring.
Wallace: Silver Capital of the World
Wallace, a community of less than 1,000 residents, sits in a bowl-shaped valley cradled by forested mountains. Lined with historic buildings from the late 1800s and early 1900s, Wallace feels a bit like a time capsule. Turrets, cast-iron railings, and tin-pressed ceilings point to yesteryear in a mix of Neo-classical Revival, Art Deco, and Queen Anne designs.
In Wallace, the Stardust Motel offers retro appeal with mid-century modern furnishings and vintage appliances in every room. Photo courtesy of the Wallace Chamber of Commerce
The town’s silver mining history is celebrated throughout the three-block downtown. Old mining cars have been repurposed into sidewalk flower boxes. There’s a restaurant named Cogs Gastropub and a craft cocktail spot called Silver Corner Bar (which also rents out comfortably updated boutique accommodations in Lux Rooms, a former bordello upstairs). Visitors can learn about the region’s mining history by visiting the Wallace District Mining Museum for a walking tour of exhibitions, or the Sierra Silver Mine Tour for a guided tour of a non-working mine where silver was discovered around 1900.
The Coeur d’Alene Resort anchors the city’s lakefront, offering easy access to outdoor activities, spa services, and gourmet restaurants. Photo courtesy of The Coeur d’Alene Resort
Steeped in history, Wallace is also quite quirky. It declares itself “the center of the universe,” with a giant medallion manhole cover saying so in the middle of an intersection. The Northern Pacific Depot Museum displays a tombstone of town founder Colonel William Ross Wallace, but his body lies in Whittier, California. The antiques at the North Idaho Trading Company include prosthetic eyeballs and a mummified mermaid with fins and all. The mid-century modern Stardust Motel was recently remodeled with vintage finds. Fire pits surrounded by colorful Adirondack chairs make this spot a cozy place to pause after touring and antiquing.
Not for the faint of heart, the Route of the Hiawatha is a 15-mile bike ride along a former railroad track, leading riders through tunnels and sky-high trestles. Photo courtesy of Visit Idaho
Kellogg: Center of Silver Valley — A Town Founded by a Donkey
Located a short drive west on I-90, in the direction of Coeur d’Alene, the town of Kellogg possesses a pioneering spirit similar to that of Wallace. The town’s history is tied to a donkey named Bill who helped discover the nearby Bunker Hill Mine in 1885. As the story goes, the donkey, belonging to gold prospector and carpenter Noah Kellogg, wandered off and was found some days later grazing on a hillside that sparkled with galena — a mineral that signals the presence of silver, according to Spokane Historical. A town was established as a prospecting camp in 1893, and renamed a year later to honor Kellogg’s discovery. Today, the town recalls its history with a sign that reads, “This is the town founded by a jackass and inhabited by his descendants.”
Cisco’s Gallery in Coeur d’Alene is a 14,000-square-foot wonderland for lovers of Western art, Native American art, artifacts, and antiques.
The community of 2,600 was once a leader in mining and smelting lead, zinc, and silver. After that industry shrank, Kellogg pivoted to become a year-round outdoor playground promoting skiing, mountain biking, and hiking. Silver Mountain Resort is a popular attraction, offering a 3.1-mile gondola ride, the longest in North America.
The American Indian collectibles feature objects for every interest and taste, including prehistoric stone tools, pottery, 19th-century baskets, beadwork, headdresses, and much more. Photos courtesy of Cisco’s Gallery
Don’t overlook the two Kellogg buildings that landed on the National Registry of Historic Places. The Miner’s Hat, built in the shape of a miner’s chapeau, began as a restaurant and now operates as a realty office. The whimsical structure is one of many called “novelty” or “programmatic architecture,” designed as an eye-catching advertising gimmick in the 1940s. The second is the elegant Boy Scout Cabin, which was built in 1945 from discarded logs gathered from a local mine. The log cabin and surrounding park were to honor Kellogg’s World War II veterans.
In downtown Kellogg, at Silver Road and I-90, one monument evokes awe — the Sunshine Miners Memorial. Ken Lonn, a former miner from Sunshine Mine, made this 13-foot metal statue. It honors the 91 miners who perished from carbon monoxide poisoning due to a mine fire in 1972. The tragedy is counted among the largest mining disasters in U.S. history.
Coeur d’Alene: Lake City
Continuing north, Coeur d’Alene’s Old Mission State Park covers 17 serene acres. The Native Americans who converted to Catholicism worshipped on these grounds in the oldest building in Idaho, the Mission of the Sacred Heart. Built mainly by tribe members from 1850 to 1853, the church with its baroque-style façade was the vision of Father Antonio Ravalli. The Italian priest, self-taught in art and construction, modeled it after cathedrals from his homeland.
In 2004, Wallace’s mayor made a proclamation: “I, Ron Garitone, Mayor of Wallace, Idaho, and all of its subjects, and being of sound body and mind, do hereby solemnly declare and proclaim Wallace to be the Center of the Universe.” A manhole cover marks his proclamation, which can neither be proved nor disproved.
Whereas the small communities of Wallace and Kellogg capture the essence of mining, Coeur d’Alene, the largest city in Northern Idaho, is notable for Western art galleries and outdoor activities.
Consider staying at Coeur d’Alene Resort, a luxurious, 18-story hotel crowning the city’s lake, which anchors the community and spans 25 miles. Dine on Northwest fare at the resort’s sky-high Beverly’s restaurant or make a reservation at The Cedars Floating Restaurant, which floats at the confluence of Lake Coeur d’Alene and the Spokane River. For outdoor activities, one can hike scenic Tubbs Hill, bike the paved Centennial Trail, or embark on a boat cruise to acquaint yourself with the surroundings.
At the Silver Mountain Resort in Kellogg, Idaho, visitors can board the longest gondola in North America, which takes guests 3.1 miles up the mountain.
Drawing tourists and locals alike, Sherman Avenue hosts more than a hundred downtown restaurants and boutiques selling handmade gifts, jewelry, and clothing. As a main thoroughfare through town, the half-mile stretch of road connects to local parks, lodgings, and natural features.
Kellogg, once a thriving mining town, is now a year-round skiing and hiking destination thanks to the Silver Mountain Resort. Photos courtesy of Visit Idaho
In Coeur d’Alene, you can find art created by a variety of makers. One popular locale is Cisco’s Gallery, a 14,000-square-foot art, furnishings, and antiques emporium. The two-story space offers some 20,000 items in the store and an additional 10,000 online. Its website features a downloadable map to study before visiting, but it’s wise to set aside at least an hour to wander from room to room. By attending auctions and purchasing online, owner Sam Kennedy has amassed a wide assortment of authentic, rare, and fascinating objects since the gallery opened in 1996. He once said the store is a “museum with price tags.” From floor to ceiling, it’s got everything: Colt revolvers, Navajo jewelry, spinning carnival prize wheels, antler lighting, even Custer’s original wedding uniform. The life-sized, metal longhorn steer may not be for everyone, but the catalogue promises it “looks great on a front porch or lawn.”
In less than an hour, motorists can complete the 25.2-mile Lake Coeur d’Alene Scenic Byway, which yields views of the lake, mountains, and forests. Photo courtesy of Visit Idaho
Other venues include The Art Spirit Gallery, which offers works by regional artists in a variety of styles; Coeur d’Alene Galleries, which specializes in 19th- and 20th-century Western, wildlife, and sporting art; and Gallery Northwest, a collective run by local artists. One can also order and sip wine while admiring artwork at Studio 107, a wine bar pairing beverages from around the world with creative pursuits. Meanwhile, the Museum of North Idaho showcases the region’s history, unearthing little-known facts with photographs and artifacts.
Miner’s Hat, built in 1940 as a roadside diner, was commissioned by Mary Etta Page, the restaurant owner. It’s now on the National Register of Historic Places. Photo courtesy of Silver Valley Chamber of Commerce
Quirky towns. Unlikely heroes. Western art. Historic architecture. In North Idaho, you’ll enrich your appreciation for yesteryear as well as the artists and preservationists keeping history alive today.
If you go…
Coeur d’Alene Galleries
The Art Spirit Gallery
208.765.6006; theartspiritgallery.com
Cisco’s Gallery
208.769.7575; ciscosgallery.com
Coeur d’Alene Galleries
208.667.7732; cdagalleries.com
Emerge
Gallery Northwest
208.667.5700; facebook.com/GalleryNorthwest
Studio 107
208.664.1201; studio107cda.com
Wallace Arts & Antiques
Eureka Sally Gallery of Art & Chocolate
Johnson’s Gems & Collectibles
208.556.0983; johnsonsgems.com
North Idaho Trading Company
208.753.2911; facebook.com/northidahotrading
Lodging
Coeur d’Alene Resort, Coeur d’Alene
Morning Star Lodge, Kellogg
Stardust Motel, Wallace
208.752.1213; stardustwallace.com
Activities
Kayak Coeur d’Alene, Coeur d’Alene
Lake Coeur d’Alene Cruises, Coeur d’Alene
Sierra Silver Mine Tour, Wallace
208.752.5151; silverminetour.org
Silver Mountain Resort, Kellogg
Spokehouse E-Bike Rentals, Wallace
208.699.6882; thespokehouse.com
Places of Interest
Coeur d’Alene Old Mission State Park, Cataldo
208.682.3814; parksandrecreation.idaho.gov
Mineral Ridge Trail and Scenic Area, Coeur d’Alene
208.769.5000; visitnorthidaho.com
Museum of North Idaho, Coeur d’Alene
North Idaho Centennial Trail, Coeur d’Alene
Tubbs Hill, Coeur d’Alene
Boy Scout Cabin, Kellogg
2 S. Hill St.
Miner’s Hat, Kellogg
300 E. Cameron Ave.
Sunshine Miners Memorial, Kellogg
I-90/Exit 54; visitnorthidaho.com
Northern Pacific Depot Museum, Wallace
Oasis Bordello Museum, Wallace
208.753.0801; visitnorthidaho.com
Wallace District Mining Museum, Wallace
Restaurants
Beverly’s, Coeur d’Alene
The Cedars Floating Restaurant, Coeur d’Alene
208.664.2922; cedarsfloatingrestaurant.com
Radio Brewing Company, Kellogg
208.786.6633; radiobrewingcompany.com
Blackboard Café, Wallace
208.556.5648; blackboardmarketplace.com
The Fainting Goat Restaurant & Bar, Wallace
208.512.9010; thefaintinggoatwallace.com
Kathy Chin Leong is an award-winning travel writer whose work has been published in The New York Times, Los Angeles Times, and many other publications.
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