30 Apr WESTERN LANDMARK: LUXURY IN THE LAST BEST PLACE

The Blackfoot River wends its way through a small valley in Western Montana, dividing swaths of working ranchland that roll to the toes of the forested mountains. The valley is home to grizzly bears, elk, deer, and wolves, and has been a place of travel and visitation for people throughout time. Historically, the valley served as a transportation corridor for the Nez Percé, Flathead, and Blackfeet tribes, as well as fur trappers, miners, and loggers before homesteaders arrived in the late 1800s.

The two-story Tree Haus found in the green o includes a spiraling staircase that lifts guests 23 feet into the forest canopy.

While the resort can accommodate nearly 300 guests in the summertime, each home is intimately situated to provide privacy.

Among the working ranches that dot the long valley is a Western oasis known as Paws Up Montana, a cattle ranch and resort in the rural town of Greenough, just 30 minutes from Missoula. A vacation destination for 20 years, Paws Up treats guests to an all-inclusive, experiential stay steeped in the culture of Montana. Paws Up’s sprawling 37,000 acres are tucked against national forest land, just a long stone’s throw away from Garnet, one of the state’s best-preserved ghost towns.

Paws Up is both a luxury resort and working ranch with a Black Angus breeding program and the Saddle Club, a 29,000-square-foot riding arena where the ranch hosts lessons and roping clinics and where wranglers work the Paws Up horses in the wintertime.

Unsurprisingly, the property contains a long and storied past. Among the early owners of the land, Paul Greenough raised sheep and identified his flock by painting a large green “O” on the back of each woolly coat. Later owners included William Duce, who hosted Hollywood actors such as Maureen O’Hara; Land and Jon Lindbergh, sons of celebrated aviator Charles Lindbergh; and Bill Moore of the Kelly-Moore Paint Company.

Dave and Nadine Lipson purchased the land that makes up Paws Up in 1997 with a desire for full-time Montana living. Arriving from Colorado, they named the ranch for the joyful “paws up” greeting of a dog and set about developing an Angus breeding program that was rated among the top 10 Black Angus seed stock operations in the state in 2003. With success in the cattle business, the Lipson family then set about opening a luxury resort where guests could experience the best of what Montana has to offer.

The 28 timber-frame homes include Western-chic furnishings.

“Falling in love with Montana, and especially creating a life on a ranch here, is deeply rooted in exploring wide-open spaces and forming a genuine connection with nature, along with embracing the grit and challenges they sometimes bring,” says Nadine. “For us, sharing this experience with our guests means offering a glimpse into the beauty of exploration and untouched landscapes. At Paws Up Montana, visitors can experience this ethereal connection to something greater than themselves.”

Dining at Paws Up is an activity in itself: In addition to fine cuisine at the Social Haus, Pomp, and Trough restaurants, summertime guests can enjoy ranch food served camp-style, expertly prepared over an open fire. Photos courtesy of Paws Up

In 2005, the resort opened with three tents and 18 homes. Since then, it has grown to accommodate nearly 300 guests in the summertime, though by design, a stay can be as social or intimate as desired. Accommodations include modern kitchenettes, private decks, and hot tubs, as well as access to a personal Lexus SUV for travel across the property. On-site fine dining includes the Western flair of Pomp and Trough restaurants, as well as the multi-course storytelling format of Chef Brandon Cunningham’s dinners at the Social Haus. With three James Beard Foundation-nominated chefs on staff, dining at Paws Up is an experience, with dishes inspired by locale, nostalgia, and a strong sense of what elevated ranch food can be.

The Paws Up culinary team includes three James Beard Foundation-nominated chefs: Sunny Jin, general manager of food and beverage, who brought his James Beard nomination from his former position at Jory Restaurant at The Allison Inn & Spa in Newberg, Oregon; Krystle Swenson, executive pastry chef, who is a two-time semifinalist for Outstanding Pastry Chef; and Brandon Cunningham, executive chef, who was recently recognized for a second time as a semifinalist for Best Chef.

Tucked within the captivating landscape are 28 timber-frame homes with forest and meadow views, which can accommodate a private getaway for two, family vacations, corporate groups, or adventurous retreats in configurations to suit two to eight guests. Each structure boasts Mountain Modern details with light-filled vaulted spaces, luxury fixtures, and Western-chic décor. The natural material palette includes wood and stone, with rich details such as exposed rafters, wainscotting, fine cabinetry, and tongue-and-groove paneling paired with the anchoring grandeur of stone masonry.

Guests can enjoy 100 miles of trails across the resort’s 37,000 acres, including horseback forays along the Blackfoot River, across grassy meadows, and through pine and larch forests. Photos courtesy of Paws Up

During Montana’s golden season of summer, when long sunshine days yield to cool nights twinkling with starlight, Paws Up visitors can indulge in ultra-luxurious camping at one of six glamping camps, which staff a full-service butler and offer fine camp dining. These accommodations, available from May to October, are safari-style, with canvas tents set up atop platform floors. Within, guests will find log beds, copper bathtubs, heated floors, and private en suite bathrooms.

In addition to the mountain and meadow homes and luxury glamping tents, Paws Up offers the gated adults-only green o, comprising 12 secluded homes. Each contemporary structure blends within the towering larch and pine forest so that guests can enjoy a deeply experiential Montana stay. Structures feature expansive glazing, and many are clad with siding finished with shou sugi ban, a Japanese burnt wood treatment that can repel bugs and water. With four building types — a Tree Haus in the forest canopy, a Green Haus with vast window expanses, a Round Haus with curving walls, and a Light Haus with cathedral ceilings — the homes are elegant, lavish, and a delightful escape from the outdoor experiences that abound.

Meandering streams bring life to the meadows of Paws Up, where cattle, bison, and horses rotationally graze. In addition to guest accommodations, the resort is home to several structures that feature a natural materials palette, such as the Cook Shack complex that houses Pomp and Trough restaurants as well as Tank, a full-service cocktail bar. Photos courtesy of Paws Up

While Paws Up has become known for its fine dining and luxurious accommodations, adventure is a cornerstone of any stay. Guests can experience Montana’s great outdoors with activities tailored to the four seasons, such as guided fly fishing, cliff rappelling, white-water rafting, and dog sledding. The property includes 100 miles of trails that visitors can enjoy by horseback, ATV, hiking, mountain biking, snowmobiling, or snowshoeing. Outdoor play spaces include a sporting clay course, paintball course, ropes course, tubing and ice-skating rink, and go-kart circuit. And, for those seeking a true dude ranch stay, guests may participate in trail rides, cattle drives, and chuck wagon dinners.

With its gourmet cuisine, upscale accommodations, and vast potential for adventure, Paws Up Montana elevates the idea of roughing it in style, offering the opportunity to fall in love with one of the last best places: the Treasure State.

Jessianne Castle is a freelance writer based in Northwest Montana. Born and raised in the Treasure State, she focuses on storytelling in the Northern Rockies and is the editor-in-chief of Big Sky Journal.