05 Mar Wanderings: Welcome Back to Maui

Two days after the Maui fires on August 8, 2023, Dale Zarrella had a vision. In his mind’s eye, he saw Hawaiian creatures, gods, and goddesses in the wood of the charred trees. Four months later, the sculptor entered the Lahaina burn zone, escorted by FEMA personnel, and rescued the ancient timbers he once regarded as friends.

Sculptor Dale Zarrella’s sculpture, Pele, Goddess of Fire, is carved from a fallen tree from the Lahaina fire. Photo courtesy of the artist

From his Maui studio, Zarrella put his sculpting tools to work, breathing life into blackened trunks and branches. The artist, whose commissioned pieces are in the Vatican Museum, has vowed to create 102 sculptures in memory of the 102 individuals who died. And he is donating 50 percent of his sale proceeds to the non-profit Treecovery Hawai‘i, which works to provide free trees to residents who lost theirs in the fire.   

Indeed, the aloha spirit is alive and well. “There’s no longer that heavy feeling,” observes Leanne Pletcher, director of public relations and marketing for the Maui Visitors and Convention Bureau. “There’s a sense of resurgence and hope. We’ve been feeling it for a while now.”

Maui waters teem with life from corals to sea turtles to tropical fish. Photo courtesy of Maui Visitors & Convention Bureau

Before tourists, Hawaiian canoes historically took explorers around the Polynesian islands on discovery voyages. Photo courtesy of the Fairmont Kea Lani

The 64.4-mile scenic road to Hana features 600 twists and turns and 59 one-way bridges.

Maui is the second-largest island in Hawai‘i after Oahu. Visitor numbers crept up seven percent in the first 11 months of 2025 compared to the same timeframe in 2024, according to the Hawai‘i Department of Business, Economic Development & Tourism. True, the figure is small, but the needle is inching forward.  “A friend of mine recently visited for the first time since the fires and shared how healing it felt to be back, and how they wished they hadn’t waited so long,” reports Maui native Alvin Savella, co-owner/chef of Coco Deck Lahaina.

Economic expectations are rising as new enterprises emerge, from the deVine Wine Lounge in Kīhei to The Valley Alley, a 10,000-square-foot entertainment emporium featuring duckpin bowling and retro arcade games at the Westin Maui Resort & Spa, Ka‘anapali. To dispel misconceptions, nearly all of Maui’s tour companies, shopping areas, farms, stores, restaurants, and resorts are open, eager for guests to return.

Many visitors make it a point to stay for the sunset as it descends over Haleakalā. Photos courtesy of Maui Visitors & Convention Bureau

Fire debris has been cleared, with only sections of historic Lahaina still closed to the public. As to when the National Historic Landmark will be fully rebuilt, no deadline has been issued. Much of Front Street, the town’s epicenter, was reduced to ashes, but today, a handful of restaurants in the northern end are up and running. Māla Ocean Tavern was spared by the inferno, which stopped at its doorstep. This waterfront eatery was the first business on Front Street to reopen in February 2024, bringing inspiration and joy to all.

After Māla relaunched, the Old Lahaina Luau, also on Front Street, followed suit. The establishment serves up a three-hour luau complete with hula entertainment. One worker said the restaurant is not as busy as before, but every night they seem to fill up their tables.

Teachers from the Hale Kukuna Cultural Center at the Fairmont Kea Lani take ukulele workshops beyond hotel walls. Photo courtesy of the Fairmont Kea Lani

The neighborhood also greeted the new Coco Deck Lahaina. Just across the street, this casual fusion eatery blends Latin, American, and Hawaiian flavors. Chef Savella stresses that while the community will always grieve what was lost, they are moving forward. “Some visitors worry their presence may feel intrusive,” Savella says. “What’s important to know is that when people come back with aloha, they are deeply appreciated.”

Harbor operations are returning at a cautious pace. Among the few approved tour companies, Sail Maui uses the port for whale-watching and snorkeling trips.

Go on a morning, afternoon, or sunset cruise with Sail Maui. Photo courtesy of Sail Maui

Meanwhile, the island’s landscape remains exquisitely unique and open for exploration. The winding 64.4-mile drive to Hana still draws wonder at the sight of waterfalls and rainbow eucalyptus trees. And the one and only Haleakalā National Park offers a descending bicycle ride — not for the faint-hearted — that cuts through Martian-like terrain.

The art scene that once orbited Lahaina may now be decentralized, but it is not gone. At least 20 galleries were destroyed in the fire, yet favorites such as Village Galleries Maui and Lahaina Printsellers have found new homes. In the Upcountry region, Makai Glass Maui is located in a converted pineapple factory, selling glass pieces crafted on-site. It is also the current home for paintings by twin brothers Alessio and Marcello Bugagiar who lost as much as $500,000 dollars of their inventory in the blaze. Says Marcello, “Being alive is a gift, and everything else can be rebuilt. We painted a week after the fire.”

Snorkeling at Wailea and other diving activities have resumed amid pristine waters. Photo courtesy of the Fairmont Kea Lani

A festive atmosphere abounds at Wailuku First Friday in the Wailuku Arts District, where visitors mingle with artists and musicians. Further south, The Shops at Wailea sponsor a monthly art night. Notable is the Enchantress and Freeborne Gallery, which features contemporary art and “automobilia” furniture made from classic cars.

Lahaina in My Dreams was created after the fire by fine art painter Marcello Bugagiar.

Island art and culture are core values at Hawaiian hotels. The Fairmont Kea Lani took this mandate seriously when, two years ago, it unveiled the Hale Kukuna Cultural Center, with artifacts, art, and interactive programming. It is the largest of its kind among Hawai’i resorts. At this open-air hub, the burnt tree sculptures from artist-in-residence Zarrella draw plenty of attention. “People sometimes cry even if they had nothing to do with the fire,” he says.

Humpback whales breach and frolic during their seasonal journey from January to March. Photo courtesy of Pacific Whale Foundation

General manager Rob Farrell and chef and co-owner Alvin Savella are thrilled to be back at work at the reopened Māla Ocean Tavern. Photo: Erika Meadows

As mindful artists give back, so can tourists pitch in and make meaningful community connections. Pletcher encourages tourists to support mom-and-pop businesses and institutions that promote voluntourism. At the Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua, guests roll up their sleeves for the weekly coastal cleanup. GoHawaii.com/voluntourism lists at least a dozen charities seeking helping hands for tree planting, sewing for the needy, and even combing cats.

Six swimming pools grace the premises at the Westin Ka‘anapali. Unique is the adult pool with a sand-filled bottom.

R&R is top priority in the King Premier Corner Suite at the Westin Ka‘anapali. Photos courtesy of The Westin Maui Resort & Spa Ka‘anapali

Longtime resident Marcello Bugagiar hopes that travelers will step onto Maui soil with a newfound sense of respect and compassion. “Tourism is beautiful when done right,” he observes. “Locals love and honor the land, and that is amazing. If tourists can maintain the beauty and keep our businesses going, then I think we will all do well.”

Kathy Chin Leong is an award-winning journalist with works published in The New York Times, National Geographic Books, and many other publications. She lives in Sunnyvale, California with her husband Frank and daughter Gwen.

If you go…

Activities

Sail Maui
808.244.2087; sailmaui.com

The Shops at Wailea
808.891.6770; theshopsatwailea.com

The Valley Alley
808.662.2775; thevalleyalley.com

Wailuku First Fridays
wailukufirstfriday.com

Dining

Coco Deck Lahaina
808.451.2778; cocodecklahaina.com

deVine Wine Lounge
808.214.6476; devinewinelounge.com

Māla Ocean Tavern
808.667.9394; malatavern.com

Old Lahaina Luau
808.667.1998; oldlahainaluau.com

Galleries

Enchantress & Freeborne Gallery
808.495.4161; enchantressgallery.com

Lahaina Printsellers
808.667.7843; printsellers.com

Makai Glass Maui
808.419.6685; makaiglass.com

Village Galleries Maui
808.661.4402; villagegalleriesmaui.com

Lodging

Fairmont Kea Lani
808.875.4100; fairmont-kea-lani.com

Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua
808.669.6200; ritzcarlton.com

Westin Maui Resort & Spa, Ka‘anapali
808.667.2525; marriott.com

Places of Interest

Haleakalā National Park
808.572.4400; nps.gov/hale

Hale Kukuna Cultural Center
808.875.4100; fairmont-kea-lani.com/hale-kukuna

Road to Hana
gohawaii.com

Wailuku Arts District
smalltownbig.org

Nonprofit Organizations

Treecovery Hawai’i
treecoveryhawaii.org

Voluntourism
gohawaii.com/voluntourism