04 Jul Wanderings: Mile Hile Masterpieces
Located at an elevation of 5,280 feet and framed by the majestic Rocky Mountains to the west, Denver, Colorado, is packed full of interesting attractions for art and architecture aficionados. With museums crafted by world-famous “starchitects” and public art installations scattered throughout the city, from the towering 40-foot-tall Big Blue Bear (2005) peeking into the Colorado Convention Center to the whimsical Dancers (2003) outside the Denver Center for the Performing Arts, Denver offers plenty of creativity to excite your imagination.
An architectural tour ought to begin at Civic Center Park. Today, the park remains one of the most intact representations of the City Beautiful movement, an urban planning ambition presented at the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago that sought to create attractive, healthy, and orderly public environments. In the generations since, Denver’s leaders have sought to surround the park with a curated collection of architecture from some of the world’s most acclaimed designers.
Many of Civic Center Park’s structures are more than 100 years old, and one can make it a treasure hunt by locating the various murals painted by noted Denver artist Allen Tupper True [1881–1955]. Explore the Greek Amphitheatre, which opened in 1919 and was designed by Denver architects Marean & Norton in collaboration with Chicago architect Edward H. Bennett to seat up to 1,200 spectators. There’s also the Voorhies Memorial (1919), which honors a successful Denver miner and was designed by Fisher & Fisher. The Greek-Revival-style McNichols Civic Center Building (1910), the oldest structure at the park designed by Albert Ross, served as the city’s central library until 1956, when it became municipal offices. Today, the building hosts rotating exhibitions, including an exhibition of Colorado fiber artists, Fiber Art Today, on view through August 30.
Tour de Force: Denver Art Institutions
Located at the entrance to the Golden Triangle neighborhood, the Denver Art Museum (DAM) offers not only a selection of world-class art exhibitions but also a dynamic display of architecture.
The Frederic C. Hamilton Building was added to the Denver Art Museum in 2006. Its design was inspired by the craggy cliffs of the Rockies and the dynamic city of Denver.
The Lanny & Sharon Martin Building (1971) was designed by famed Italian architect Gio Ponti and Denver-based James Sudler Associates. It’s composed of 28 vertical surfaces with varying planes, wrapped in more than a million reflective, warm-gray glass tiles that sparkle intermittently in sunlight and seemingly vanish against a winter sky. Previously known as the North Building, the Martin Building was one of the first high-rise art museums in the world and the only building designed by Ponti in North America.
The Anna and John J. Sie Welcome Center, connecting the Hamilton and Martin buildings on DAM’s campus, was added in 2021. Machado Silvetti and Fentress Architects designed the entrance, which pays homage to Gio Ponti’s original vision for the Martin Building.
The Clyfford Still Museum collection comprises 3,125 works by Clyfford Still, representing 93 percent of the artist’s lifetime output. Photo: Ted Stedman
Stored within these thoughtfully conceived spaces are DAM’s collections of some 70,000 artworks across 12 permanent collections. Current visiting exhibitions include Kent Monkman: History is Painted by the Victors through August 17 and Confluence of Nature: Nancy Hemenway Barton through October 19.
Stroll a few blocks to the south to visit the Kirkland Museum of Fine & Decorative Art, which hosts a collection of about 4,000 works focused on three areas: international decorative arts from Arts & Crafts to Postmodern design; Colorado fine art from the mid-19th century to the present; and a retrospective of Colorado’s distinguished painter Vance Kirkland [1904–1981], whose long career evolved from Realism to Surrealism to Abstraction. Seattle, Washington-based firm Olson Kundig designed the museum, which joined DAM in October 2024.
Jonathan Borofsky’s sculpture Dancers was installed in front of the Denver Center for the Performing Arts in 2003. Mounted at the base of the sculpture are five speakers that continuously play the song “Let’s Dance.” Photo: Tru Blue Images
Nearby, the Clyfford Still Museum offers an intriguing showcase of art dedicated to an uncompromising pioneer of Abstract Expressionism. Still [1904–1980] invented a new way of painting and was determined never to let money or fame cloud his vision. When he died at 76, the artist had retained over 3,100 works, representing nearly 95 percent of what he created during his lifetime. In his will, Still bequeathed his collection to the American city willing to build a museum to house it. Designed by Allied Works Architecture, the museum is home to nearly all of the artist’s creations.
Also located within this area is Denver’s American Museum of Western Art, a must-visit destination along your artistic tour. The museum is home to The Anschutz Collection, an extraordinary survey of Western American art with some 300 paintings by more than 180 artists spanning the genre’s canon.
The 40-foot-tall Big Blue Bear, a sculpture by artist Lawrence Argent, peers quizzically into the Denver Convention Center. Denver’s Public Art Program, established in 1988, mandates that 1 percent of city capital improvement projects over $1 million be allocated to public art. Since then, over $40 million has funded more than 400 artworks. Photo: Scott Dressel-Martin. Photos courtesy of Visit Denver
The Museum of Contemporary Art Denver (MCA), with Tim Noble and Sue Webster’s Toxic Schizophrenia / Hyper Version installed outside, was founded in 1996 as the first dedicated home for contemporary art in the city. Through August 24, MCA presents a selection of artworks from the New Orleans-based international art triennial Prospect.6 in The Future is Present, The Harbinger is Home: Selections from Prospect.6 New Orleans. (Also, check out MCA’s Octopus Initiative, which offers any Denver metro-area resident the chance to borrow and live for 10 months with artwork made by a Denver-based artist.)
The Denver Art Museum has more than 70,000 artworks across 12 permanent collections. The Indigenous Arts of North America Galleries include 18,000 objects by artists from more than 250 Indigenous nations. Photo: James Florio
Families with young children (and adults of all ages) will wonder at the never-ending fantasy of Meow Wolf Convergence Station (2021), an interactive art space that offers family-friendly and 21+ events. Meow Wolf, which began in 2008 as a small collective of Santa Fe artists, has grown to include locations in four other cities — Denver, Las Vegas, and Grapevine and Houston, Texas — with additional locations planned to open in Los Angeles and New York City. Inside the Meow Wolf Convergence Station, artists’ imaginations run wild, and you can explore the result through interactive art installations filled with colors and sounds.
In the River North District, or RiNo, hip industrial vibes mélange with street art, jazz bars, brew pubs, art galleries, studios, and creative events. Photos courtesy of Visit Denver
Boutique Sleep: Artful Oases
Denver offers historic and art-inspired options for those who prefer to immerse themselves in tasteful design for the duration of their stay.
The ART, a hotel was designed by Denver’s Davis Partnership Architects to reference architect Daniel Libeskind’s addition to the DAM. The nine-story hotel boasts a collection of permanent and revolving art exhibits displayed in gallery-like settings.
At Alma Fonda Fina, Chef Johnny Curiel crafts contemporary Mexican fare that pays homage to the country’s rich culinary traditions.
The Oxford Hotel is a true Denver classic, offering an inviting respite in the heart of LoDo (short for Lower Downtown). The Brown Palace Hotel and Spa is a historic landmark that offers elevated amenities, distinctive dining, and a timeless tradition of afternoon tea. Located near Civic Center Park in the Central Business District, the hotel is the granddaddy of Denver leisure.
Inside the Kirkland Museum of Fine & Decorative Art, a Modern Italian vignette features the Bocca Sofa designed by Studio65 in the early 1970s. Above the couch hang works by Colorado artists William Sanderson, James Mills, Tracy Felix, Trine Bumiller, and Sushe Felix. Photo: Wes Magyar
Also notable is The Ramble Hotel, which offers a boutique experience amidst the raw energy and artsy vibe of RiNo (short for River North Art District). Renowned craft cocktail institution Death & Co Denver provides beverage services throughout the hotel, and the Pan-Latin restaurant Super Mega Bien helps make The Ramble fit for staycations.
Neighborhood Appeal: Art Districts
If you’re more interested in art created with spray cans than with oil or acrylics, then head over to RiNo. Here, grit, grind, and hipster vibes mélange in an eclectic stew of reclaimed architecture populated by dozens of galleries. Everywhere, walls are emblazoned with street art, yet the dusty days of the neighborhood’s agricultural and industrial past don’t seem distant.
Alma Fonda Fina was named for the chef’s mother, Alma, and also to embody the concept of being a soulful “hole-in-the-wall” where family and friends can gather. Photos courtesy of Visit Denver
Established as a grassroots nonprofit, RiNo’s redevelopment over the last 10 years was pushed forward by advocates who believe in the power of art to connect people in thriving communities. More than a dozen galleries and studio buildings dot the district. Among them, fooLPRoof is a contemporary art gallery renowned for uncompromising curation and diverse artists. And RedLine Contemporary Art Center is a nonprofit arts organization that fosters education and engagement between artists and communities to create positive social change.
While you are there, don’t skip Graffiti Alley. Located between Walnut and Larimer, it runs for several blocks between 25th and 28th and showcases curated street art. Pieces here, there, and everywhere were refreshed during the 2024 Denver Walls festival, which took place all over the city.
If you want to explore more of this neighborhood the next day, stay the night at The Source. Designed by Dynia Architects, it’s a boutique hotel, artisan market hall, and creative hub all rolled into one. Taking advantage of what was once the Colorado Iron Works plant, this innovative adaptive reuse asset is also a foodie favorite. Two market halls totaling 45,000 square feet host a culinary complex of artisan breads, cheeses, and meats, award-winning chefs, a sushi bar, barbecue, a barber shop, and, of course, art galleries.
Other artistically inclined neighborhoods include the Cherry Creek Arts District, with a dozen galleries amid the fashion and home décor stores; and Denver’s Art District on Santa Fe, a cultural epicenter encompassing artists, some 30 galleries, theaters, and creative small businesses along Santa Fe Drive, is worth a visit for those looking for culture and first-hand authenticity.
City Life: The Culinary Scene
All around town, Denver’s culinary scene is thriving, and it seems that many award-winning chefs are at home here.
If you like to structure your travel itinerary around restaurant reservations, the Mile High City’s Michelin-starred eateries include the three contemporary restaurants The Wolf’s Tailor, Brutø, and Beckon, and the Mexican restaurant Alma Fonda Fina. Other hotspots include Safta for Mediterranean and Israeli food, Temaki Den for Japanese, Smok for American barbecue, Dio Mio for Italian, and The Ginger Pig for Chinese.
An art and architectural tour of the Mile High City will leave one feeling inspired by the depth of creativity.
As you head back to Denver International Airport, don’t forget to tip your hat (or give a proper Mile High Salute) to the infamous Blue Mustang — better known around here as “Blucifer.” This towering blue steed with glowing red eyes isn’t just nightmare fuel; it also has a tragic backstory. A piece of the sculpture fatally injured its creator, Luis Jiménez, in 2006 during construction. Local lore says skipping a farewell might bring bad luck.
Just saying…
Sean O’Keefe is an architecture and construction writer who crafts stories and content based on people, ideas, and more than 20 years of experience in the built environment; sokpr.com.
Sidebar:
If you go…
Museums & Attractions
American Museum of Western Art
303.293.2000; anschutzcollection.org
Cherry Creek Arts District
303.394.2904; cherrycreeknorth.com
Civic Center Park
303.861.4633; civiccenterpark.org
Colorado Convention Center
303.228.8000; denverconvention.com
Clyfford Still Museum
720.354.4880; clyffordstillmuseum.org
Denver’s Art District
720.773.2373; denversartdistrict.org
Denver Art Museum
720.865.5000; denverartmuseum.org
Denver Center for the Performing Arts
303.893.4100; denvercenter.org
fooLPRoof Contemporary Art Gallery
303.641.3472; foolproofcontemporaryart.com
Kirkland Museum of Fine & Decorative Art
720.865.5000; denverartmuseum.org/en/collection/kirkland
Meow Wolf Convergence Station
866.636.9969; meowwolf.com/visit/denver
Museum of Contemporary Art Denver
RedLine Contemporary Art Center
River North Art District
Lodging
The ART, a hotel
The Brown Palace Hotel & Spa
The Oxford Hotel
833.524.0368; theoxfordhotel.com
The Ramble Hotel
720.996.6300; theramblehotel.com
The Source
720.409.1200; thesourcehotel.com
Dining
Alma Fonda Fina
303.455.9463; almalohidenver.com
Beckon
303.749.0020; beckon-denver.com
Brutø
Dio Mio
The Ginger Pig
Safta
720.408.2444; eatwithsafta.com
Smok
Temaki Den
The Wolf’s Tailor
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